In this article you will get to know six of the most beautiful insider tips in the canton of Graubünden. From impressive glacier landscapes to romantic lakes to a place with a myth that you should never get sick again.

Text and pictures by Marc Gottwald

 

Graubünden has always had a special charm for me. There is nowhere in Switzerland more wilderness to experience than in the canton of the ibex. A prime example is that the oldest national park in Central Europe and the only one in Switzerland can be found in the canton of Graubünden.

Graubünden is also the largest canton in Switzerland and is located in the Swiss Alps. It is the home of hidden natural wonders and beauties that are hard to imagine. In this article, I would like to present you six of my favourite secret tips.

 

1). Silvretta glacier

A glacier, crystal-clear lakes and 1 river for you alone? Then this insider tip hike is an absolute must. Welcome to the Silvretta glacier.

• Breathtaking insider tip hike with almost no people
• Overnight accommodation and dining options at the SAC hut (Silvretta hut)
• Alpine taxi to Alpe Cardasca (from 14 Fr per person/way: 081 420 20 20)
• Scenically very diverse hike with glaciers, glacial lakes, waterfalls, flower meadows, etc.
• A fountain is located outside the SAC hut. This means that the bottle can be refilled here.
• The best picnic spot is either about 10 minutes after Alp Cardasca at a bathing lake with an impressive view over the glacier formation.

Technique: difficult; Fitness: difficult

Duration: 5-6 hours

Hiking time: approx. June to October

 

What a start!

Cold beer is ready in the fountain. The Alpe Sardasca attracts with its attractive ’syrup‘ bar.

But… it’s 9 o’clock in the morning.

Let’s get started with the hike! You have to earn your reward first, don’t you 😉 …

 

The steep ascent to the Silvretta Hut SAC

To the SAC hut Silvrettahütte you have about 1.5-2h with a rather steep ascent and a decent speed. But the climb is fantastic.

Almost the entire ascent you are accompanied by the beautiful alpine roses with a brilliant panoramic view. Typical mountain flora up to around 200 metres altitude before the Silvretta Hut SAC.

Further up, the flora becomes rather sparse, now and then you can still see a single gentian in bloom. The canton of Graubünden is simply beautiful!

Silvretta SAC Hut

When you arrive at the Silvretta Hut, we could stop at the pub or even spend the night in a dormitory. We prefer to walk a little further and look for a resting place with a view over the glacier.

I can recommend another great photo motif at the Silvretta Hut. For me, it is clearly one of the most beautiful and special mountain huts I have ever seen!

Here is the beautiful view at lunch. As it turned out later, there would have been an even better spot, which I will of course show you.

In total, we only encountered 7 people in 8 hours that day, with 4 in a group.

So here you can really relax, gather peace and let your soul dangle. It is a true place of power! A unique panoramic experience between the glacier tongue, the glacier lakes, moraines and the slowly emerging sparse vegetation.

By the way: A circular trail, which is also a glacier learning path, shows you the formation and characteristics of a glacier and the consequences of its retreat due to climate change on around 15 panels. We didn’t miss it to look at the huge glacier gate. Wow, it’s impressive! And the thickness of the ice!

If you imagine that the glacier was here in 1850 and can no longer be seen from this point, it is very frightening. That is about 1.6km which the glacier has retreated. The Silvretta Glacier is the best-measured glacier in Europe! Since 1956, scientists at ETH Zurich have been measuring the length, width and volume of the glacier every year. The glacier melts about 2 metres per year.

Back at the Silvretta hut, you now start the descent again, which takes around 1h 45min. It is best to call the Alpentaxi now, as you have to call at least one hour in advance.

 

 

2). Lej de la Tscheppa

Here you collect happiness hormones! Breathtaking 15-lake panoramic hike to Lej da la Tscheppa with ibexes, chamois, ptarmigans and much more.

 

• Technically and physically very strenuous hike
• A real insider tip
• Only very experienced hikers can go to the light blue Lej Lagrev, as there is no official hiking trail there. Otherwise it is very dangerous!
• Bring enough food and drinks, no catering facilities!

Condition: very difficult

Technique: very difficult

Starting point: Sils Post (or easier variant: Silvaplana Camping)

Destination: Silvaplana Camping

Duration: 4.5-5h (and 6.5h to Lej Lagrev)

 

Light blue lakes, ibexes, ptarmigans – like on another planet

Have you ever seen a ptarmigan or an ibex in the wild?

No?

Do you also want to visit one of the most deserted lakes in Switzerland that practically no one has seen or knows about?

Then this incredible insider tip hike in the canton of Graubünden will overwhelm you with positive emotions!

However, this physically and technically difficult hike is only for experienced hikers (nevertheless: looking at the pictures is worthwhile!).

Start in Sils Maria

Start at Sils Maria Post and walk along the road back towards St. Moritz until you reach the industrial area. Here the trail is signposted.

The more leisurely option is to hike from Silvaplana Camping to Lej de la Tscheppa and then back the same way.

It is a very steep climb. First you hike through a beautiful mixed forest. What you will notice are the many mushrooms on the ground (in autumn). If you are an expert in mushroom picking, you can even cook yourself a good dinner after this hike!

 

Enjoy the panorama after the forest

After about 45 minutes you leave the forest and enjoy the beautiful view over Lake Sils and Lake Silvaplana as well as the surrounding mountains. There are always places to sit (benches) that tempt you to take a break. A magical place!

Since the trail is very steep and physically demanding, you definitely deserve these breaks!

The higher up you are, the stonier and more alpine the terrain becomes (alpine level). The trail is good, but there are sections where you have to pull yourself up on a rope.

 

The Lej de la Tscheppa – brave swim

Now the last metres uuuand…. it’s done! Congratulations on this really great achievement! You will be now rewarded for it! With a brilliant panoramic view over the Lej de la Tscheppa and the surrounding golden mountain peaks, as well as into the valley on the other side. Simply breathtaking and a true gem in the canton of Graubünden. And: If you don’t mind cold temperatures, you can take a dip in the lake.

Will you do it?

On to one of the most beautiful and remote lakes in Switzerland

If you are an experienced and fit hiker, you can hike to the breathtaking Lej Lagrev (otherwise you will also have beautiful pictures here). This takes about 1.5h to go there and back to Lej de la Tscheppa. But really only do this if you are able, because this path is very dangerous and stony. You need the eye to see where you can walk through, otherwise you can fall off and have a fatal accident.

On the way up, I saw various ibexes and chamois, as well as four beautiful ptarmigans. The very first time in my life! Such an incredible feeling. Nature is simply wonderful.

Once you’ve reached the top, you’ll think: This glacier lake is simply enchanting and magical! It’s probably the most beautiful and secluded lake. It has only existed since 1975, and you can clearly see the glacier on the left. Unfortunately, it has also melted quite a bit.

The descent back to Silvaplana

After the descent back to Lej de la Tscheppa, you continue in the direction of Silvaplana (approx. 2 h).

During the decent you pass at least ten beautiful smaller lakes and enjoy the view over St.Moritz and Lake Silvaplana to the fullest.

Don’t miss the beautiful heart lake, formed with much love by nature. The path is very pleasant, but towards the end it gets a little steeper when you enter the forest.

By the way: In autumn (mid-September) it is possible to pick juniper, cranberries and blueberries (even earlier). A hiking couple I met is making cranberry jam for their breakfast.

At the end you successfully arrive at the Silvaplana Camping bus stop.

 

3). The magical San Romerio

Unique scenery with a 1000-year-old church, a beautiful mountain panorama and fine locally produced food from their own garden.

 

Be healthy forever?

Is this also one of your greatest wishes? Then San Romerio in Graubünden (Grisons) is the perfect place for you.

According to a legend, once you’ve visited this place, you’ll never get sick again! That alone makes a visit to Alpe San Romerio worthwhile. But the alp has much more to offer.

It is an absolute highlight for those seeking peace and tranquillity, those interested in history or for photographers. In exchange with the owners in the restaurant you will learn interesting stories about the past and the uncertain future.

 

A special magical atmosphere

The beautiful „Church of San Romerio“, coupled with a unique view of the valley Val Poschiavo to Tirano (Italy) makes the place a magical stay. The story http://sanromerio.ch/geschichte-san-romerio is particularly exciting. The church was built more than 1000 years ago! With the time the place became a monastery.

Since 1829 the Bonguliemi family has been farming the alp and cooking with products from the garden or the region. The family can be helped voluntarily against food and lodging. There are also overnight accommodations.

 

 

The most important in a nutshell:

A breathtaking mountain scenario with locally grown food and the stone church makes San Romerio to the perfect place to enjoy relax.

San Romerio (1800m) lies in Graubünden above Poschiavo. It can be reached by post bus from Brusio and a 30 minutes walk (reservation at least one hour in advance at +41 800 126 126) or with a 4 hours hike from Poschiavo or Brusio and is therefore a real insider tip.

Food: On the Alpe San Romerio you can both eat and sleep. Local products (mostly from the own garden) are served.

 

 

4). Obermutten

The Walser village of Obermutten above Thusis is one of the most beautiful villages in the canton of Graubünden. Even the journey to the village is adventurous, after all Obermutten lies at more than 1850 metres above sea level. The Postbus takes bend after bend and fights its way up the metres in altitude. First you pass idyllic Mutten. The church is particularly beautiful, but so is the view down into the valley towards the Albulapass. Cows, sheep and donkeys graze here.

By the way, the post bus runs three times a day. It is important to make a reservation. However, you can also drive up by car. But from Mutten the road is no longer tarred. Especially in winter, the drive is an adventure and is not advised when there is fresh snow.

The Walser Village

When you arrive in Obermutten, you will immediately start dreaming. Because the village consists exclusively of the well-known Walser wooden houses. Around thirty of them, to be precise. In the past, these were mainly farmhouses, but today they also serve as holiday homes. The species-rich flower meadows beautify the village before 15 July. Then the lean meadows may be mown. If they were mown before then in the Alps, the farmers wouldn’t receive subsidies from the federal government.

Obermutten also has a wooden church from the 14th century, a village shop with local products and a hotel restaurant.

The place is perfect for starting hikes. For example, you can hike to the Muttner Horn, where a magnificent view of the Swiss and South Tyrolean Alps awaits you. Even in winter, there are prepared winter hiking trails here.

 

 

5). Val Fex

Among insiders, the Fex Valley (Val Fex) is also considered the most beautiful valley in the Upper Engadine or in the canton of Graubünden. And I can promise you one thing. It really is beautiful, whether in summer or winter.

Since the Fex Valley is completely car-free, the following options remain: Hiking, biking or a carriage ride. I chose the first option, but the bikers are clearly in the majority on this warm summer day.

From Sils Maria the hike starts along the hiking trail or the road. Both paths are beautiful. It is best to do one on the way there and the other on the way back. On the way, before 15 July, many orchids and other flowers (e.g. daisies) can be seen in the meadows next to the path. Regarding orchids, especially the marsh orchids are in the majority. Please do not leave the paths, the flowers are also very beautiful to see from the path.

Passing a hotel restaurant in Crasta, the trail continues to Chalchais. The hike takes about 1.5h each way. Afterwards you could continue to Alp Muot Selvas and enjoy the magnificent view of the three glaciers „Vadret dal Tremoggia“, „Vadret da Fex“ and „Vadret dal Güz“.

 

 

6). Lagh da Bitabergh

Not far from Val Fex is Val Forno, which is also car-free. Compared to the Fex Valley, free parking is offered here.

Past a mudslide protection wall, the trail climbs about 150 metres up the mountain through the forest.  The leisurely hike is absolutely worthwhile because the Lagh da Bitabergh is one of the idyllic lakes in the canton of Graubünden. Especially in the evening, the atmosphere is unique. Probably the only drawback are the many mosquitoes near the lake.

Afterwards, the hike to Lagh da Cavloc can be continued. The lake is a bit bigger but also beautiful. You can even stop at a restaurant or take a dip in the cold water.

The circular hike from the car park to Lagh da Bitabergh, Lagh da Cavloc and back takes around 3h. By the way, if you want, you can continue the hike from Lagh da Cavloc to the SAC hut Capanna del Forno and spend the night there, where a truly unbelievably spectacular view over the glacier world awaits you.